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@@alfredoroman4267 look up factory pro shift star

@DavidM2002 thanks! Glad it was helpful. just keep in mind that some switches are naturally open and some are naturally closed.

@@TheMotorcycleBoss Good point. Thanks.

@EVil-ob8in that threaded rod tool for those forks is pretty vital. I did the same thing on my first set. Trying to do it without the tool seems difficult. The only way I can see it maybe working is if you force a rubber hose on the end and use that to lift it up. Thanks for the sub. Much appreciated!

Solid rotors can be more prone to warping due to the lack of bobbins. With bobbins (or floating rotors) the expansion and contraction due to heat allows some give and flexibility. Solid rotors don't have this ability and when they expand, they can warp. However; you can still reduce brake squeak on Solid rotors by deglazing brake pads, thoroughly cleaning your rotors, tightening bolts to their correct torque specs, and lubricating the proper brake components. I hope this helps! Thanks for commenting!

@npzninja without hearing it for myself, it is difficult to know. There are a few different causes of brake squeak. Just try to remedy it as best you can by performing this trick, thoroughly cleaning your rotors, deglazing brake pads, and ensuring all points are lubed that need to be if necessary for your bike. Sometimes simply installing low quality pads can create a squeak. So upgrading your pads may alleviate the issue if everything else has been done but fails to work. Hope this helps!

@@TheMotorcycleBoss thanks for the tip, but I checked, rotors are brand new (just bought the bike a month ago, although used. I don't think this is the issue. however, I inspected the pads closer and they do look old. maybe i should start there. sucks, i was hoping for a cheap and relatively cheap fix. I know pads will run me anywhere from 50-100bucks, and i need to buy sockets because I don't know what kind of bolt heads are on this bike, but I don't have a tool for em.)

Glad I could help!

@@nickrider5220 your thanks is much appreciated. Even tho I haven't posted in years, I still respond to everyone I can. The video will forever be relevant as long as there are Gen4 ZX10's still on the road. Glad to be of service! Ride safe!

Glad I could help!

That's a weird one. You figure out the issue?

No problem. I hope this fixes your issue

If the issue persists, that means you have too much air still trapped in your lines or in your caliper. Sometimes you have to remove your caliper and move it around while you bleed. Air will get trapped in pockets inside the brake line or caliper that you can't get out without doing this. Remember that the air pockets will always float to the highest point in the system. But if there is an aggressive bend or pocket, they can get stuck. I know having to do this sucks but it needs to be done if your brakes keep getting mushy.

Thanks! I hope this was helpful to you! Ride safe!

I'm glad it helped at least a little. Usually, if the problem persists, you still have too much air trapped in the system. Sometimes you have to detach the caliper and move it around while bleeding to get out any trapped air. It sucks to do but will almost guarantee a proper bleed. Hope it goes well for you!

Whoa! That sucks. Someone wasn't paying attention for sure!

You're welcome! No problem. Glad to be of service!

Have you considered trying to gravity bleed your system? Also, sometimes you need to prime the master cylinder after rebuilding it by removing the brake line at the master cylinder, cover the hole where the brake line was with your thumb, then squeeze the brake lever a few times. You should eventually feel some air pressure behind your thumb. Allow the air pressure to escape but try to not let much air back in when you release the lever. Do this until you primarily have fluid trying to squeeze past your thumb, then quickly reinstall the brake line and proceed with a gravity bleed. After the gravity bleed is done, continue to bleed as normal. I hope this helps!

I'd probably go for a rear stand and a head-lift stand personally.

It's highly likely that this will fix it if you can get one for your bike. I'd say it's worth a try.

Thank you so much! Compliments like that really make all that work worth it! I hope to hear from you in the future. Ride safe!

You most likely still have too much air trapped in the lines or caliper

Nice! I'm glad it worked! Great job on the project!

Yes. Exactly. That way it isn't connected to the battery when the bike is off. The light kit only has power while the bike's ignition is on. Hope that clears things up!

@@TheMotorcycleBoss It did! Thanks! Ride safe.

Glad it was helpful. It was a pain to shoot buy I'm glad it can help so many people. Your comment is appreciated. Ride safe!

Glad it helped! Thanks for taking the time to comment! Much appreciated.

Thanks a lot! I was trying to make it as clear as possible. Glad I did. Your comment is much appreciated!

Thanks! I hope it will be helpful to you! Ride safe!

It means you still have air trapped in your lines or caliper. Worst case is your master cylinder seal is allowing brake fluid to bypass. But most likely you just still have too much air you need to get out

Been busy working on a different project. But I will be pushing more videos out within the next few months as I will be resurrecting my cruiser. I hope to hear from you again once those videos drop. My new project has been houseofwolvesacademy.com of you want to go check it out. Still in progress right now

@@TheMotorcycleBoss I could definitely see why this channel took a pause, that project has great potential. Drop a short quick tip type video periodically, when life permits.

No problem. Glad to hear it worked out! Ride safe!

Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks a lot!

Nevermind. I wedged a rag between the lever and bracket. I'll check back in a couple days to see if this works lol.

Stacking something heavy on it is what I do. But you could also ratchetstrap it to the floor somehow.

@@TheMotorcycleBoss Thanks, Boss. I really hope this works. Don't know why my rear brakes are spongy. New pads, lines, res, fluid, zerk...new everything.

@@joruckus ​ Typically when you replace everything, you will still have trapped air in a lower spot in the calipers. That would bean that you have to unmount the caliper(s) and twist and turn them while you bleed to force any air bubbles to the highest point of the caliper which should be the bleed valve. This also happens in brake lines if there is a high spot in the line. Air will stay lodged up there until you raise the caliper higher than the line. A lot of extra work but it's common for rear brakes unfortunately. If the trick in the video doesn't help you, try what I suggested then do the ratchetstrap thing after you got a firm pressure. Hope this helps! Thanks for the comment!

@@TheMotorcycleBoss brotha, it worked! It's like a brand new bike! Thanks, again!

Thanks! Just be sure to only use this trick if you are confident that it was tightened properly before you removed the bolt. Also, friction can increase over time due to grime and corrosion so use your best judgement on when you think you should stop. Ride safe! I look forward to hearing from you in future videos!

Hayır. Kablo, çekiş kontrolü için tasarlanmıştır.

@@TheMotorcycleBoss km kablosu neresinde oluyor

​@@kartal7846 Motosikletim ABS versiyonu değil. Bu yüzden o kablo yok. Servis el kitabınıza danışmak size bu cevabı verecektir.

Yes. You can. Although I've had mixed results due to the fact that the rear brake lines have a hump to account for the swingarm movement. The hump is sometimes higher than the master cylinder and any air bubbles that accumulate using this trick will always float to the highest point in the system. So, if you can keep the master cylinder at the highest part of the system and apply pressure to the lines overnight, that is probably the best way to get similar results to the front brake. Ride safe!

Thanks! I'm glad I was able to help you! Ride safe!

So nice of you. No problem. I hope it helps!

Dang! That sucks. What's your next move from here?

Sorry to hear that. Glad you found the issue though. These shops are ridiculous sometimes.

Any luck with using the trick?

You should be able to twist it to the correct position no problem

It became unavailable on Amazon. You can search the Kawasaki part #: 27010-0717. Good luck with your search!

If they do, it's because one was leaking. They are supposed to have the same amount unless you have the BF forks.

@@TheMotorcycleBoss right one:Approx. 460 mL (15.6 US oz.) (when changing oil) 538 ±2.5 mL (18.2 ±0.085 US oz.) (after disassembly and completely dry) , and left one: Approx. 480 mL (16.2 US oz.) (when changing oil) 566 ±2.5 mL (19.1 ±0.085 US oz.) (after disassembly and completely dry)

@@TheMotorcycleBoss right :90 ±2 mm (3.54 ±0.08 in.) (fully compressed, below from the top of outer tube) , left: 80 ±2 mm (3.15 ±0.08 in.) (fully compressed, below from the top of outer tube)

I triple checked my reference video from Dave Moss as well as the service manual for the bike. They both are showing me the same thing. Levels are the same on both forks. Service manual pg. 13-6 & 13-15 both say nothing about different levels. What are you referencing?

I had the same issue. That's why I made the video. I'm glad you found it helpful. Hope to hear from you in the future!

It's made by a company called Factory Pro. It made a noticeable difference immediately. I literally just got home from riding having it installed years later. Hard shifts have been reduced by around 80%! They still happen but when they do, they aren't as bad. Would 100% recommend this mod